I wasn’t always a surfer. I used to be petrified of it actually. The mere thought of being out there on a board, as well as on the menu for sharks, was just too much for me. I used to watch all my friends out there having a blast, enjoying the waves, while I sat on the shore and wished I could join them. Finally, I realized that I was missing out on some great times and experiences, because of a fear that was unfounded and dramatic. So, I finally decided I needed to put my fears aside and join the fun. I grabbed a friend’s surfboard and started doing some longboard surfing. It was a great way for me to get started, with the bigger board, making it a little easier to learn and balance. Once I was in the water, and able to think logically, I was no longer as afraid as I was before of the sharks. At a certain point, we have to believe that things happen for a reason, and the chances of a shark attack are extremely slim. Step by step, and day by day it got easier for me, and I finally began being able to enjoy surfing the way it’s meant to be enjoyed.
